1983 nutone boiler fan
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this a good old fan that still works grate
Electric Ceiling Heater – Stelpro Design SK Series
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Electric ceiling heater application Video by Stelpro available at www.iap-home.com
Sewer Odor Experts for Roof Top Sewer Vent Stack Filters
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Every state, city, and village either has odor ordinances or treats obnoxious odors perceptible beyond property lines as public disturbances/nuisance. All plumbing vent stacks produce odors unless they fitted with a filter. OSHA warns that levels of 300-ppm (H2S) cause the olfactory nerve to lose sensitivity. At first a “rotten egg” odor is detected but on the second or third breath the odor is no longer noticed. All major odor problems have associated fines or other penalties.
When you are experiencing sewer or septic smells inside a home or business not near a plumbing fixture these odors are most likely coming from your sewer vent stacks on your roof. All plumbing vent stacks produce odors including that “rotten egg” smell caused by hydrogen sulfide gas unless they are fitted with a filter. One of the most common problems is the sewer gas (H2S) is drawn into the fresh air intakes on the roof from the air conditioning systems. On roofs industrial buildings code also require fresh air intake for building air balance against all the stale air exhausted through roof vents. The potential problem can be identified through basic smell of odor when on the roof or around the perimeter of the building as hydrogen sulfide (H2S) gas is heavier than air and thus falls to “nose level” quickly when the wind blows just right. A professional can use a H2S measuring device to detect and measure sewer gas concentration being omitted from specific roof vent stacks. The vents omitting gas is a natural occurrence on most homes and buildings because that’s the way they are designed.
Raising roof vent stacks does not solve the problem it only displaces it on a windy day to blow over the exterior wall to open windows, the patio, the fireplace, the garden, pool area, sidewalk, front door, driveway, or parking lot. On a non-wind day sewer gas is heavier than air and will settle on roof and cause intermittent sewer odors in the home or building.
Installing a One way valve on the sewer stacks will reduce the sewer gas that vents to the roof through the opening and closing of the valve. The Mechanical Engineers design the sewer venting system for it to be a sealed system in the home or business but unrestricted venting to the atmosphere. This type of system defeats the original design intent for all building designs. The system operates on demand of actions in the home or business such as the flush of a toilet or turning on a sink. Since this type of system is capping the vent stacks, it is pressurizing the sewer system in the home or business. It is creating more of a potential for sewer gas odor problems. Any type of bad plumbing seals or gaskets that that may have a small leak will cause the problem to intensify. The vent is now mechanically opened and closed by a valve. It can fail in open position too. This introduces sewer gas to the roof, when it fails.
Charcoal vent stack filters on the sewer stacks is one odor filters on the market but is less effective when introduced to moisture which causes it to solidify or cake up. Sewer gas from the vent stacks is extremely high with moisture since the systems primary function is to drain water in a sealed system underground away from the building. In my opinion this product is not the right product for this application.
I recommend for homes odor eliminator vent stack filters that use Zeocarbon. Zeocarbon is a mixture of carbon and zeolite rock, which has been independently demonstrated to work up to 7 times longer than regular carbon alone. Vent stack filters using this technology are unique in that they actually regenerate themselves for up to 5 years. These systems use sunlight. The exterior, interior, and zeocarbon replaceable bags themselves are impregnated with titanium dioxide (approximately the same quantity and type in most popular toothpastes on the market). When exposed to direct sunlight the titanium dioxide produces ozone, which directly destroys odors and regenerates the zeocarbon. When combined with “no flow periods” common to most households, this design allow us to operate up to 5 years without refilling the units. Many units completely block any regenerative UV sunlight though the use of opaque rain caps and guards that promote the development of odor producing bacteria. However because the zeocarbon can only absorb so much gas, this type filter is designed with a low cost, easily replaceable insert bags. Another good thing on this type filter is the restriction on the airflow is so slight (it has a pressure differential measured at only 1.5″ w.g./ft@50 fpm) that it does not interfere with normal venting of the plumbing system. This type filter is made with animal resistant self-cleaning screens coupled with the frost proof insulating solar heat absorption design characteristics, protects the vent stack from plugging in all seasons.
The zeocarbon filter not only traps sewer gases at the roof vent, so they cannot escape into the air at all, but it also means less air pollution from GREENHOUSE GASES. It particularly traps ammonia, carbon dioxide (global warming) and hydrogen sulfide (the rotten-egg smelling gas), which the filter traps on an 18-24% wt/wt basis, and used zeocarbon acts as an excellent source of nitrogen when mixed with soil. Even though the filter is installed directly on the vent pipe, it’s frost proof design is such that it not only does not impede air being drawn into the vent, it prevent hoar frost plugging and keeps out insects and critters. This filter is also for vents that are directly connected to aerated or non aerated septic tanks, septic mounds, drain fields, landfill vents, compost vents, etc. In many instances, city-sewer connections bring gas into the home’s plumbing vents which vent the gases out the roof vent and often down into the back yard where they can be drawn into the home. This type filter has proven beneficial in those cases too!
I recommend for mobile homes, resturants, daycare centers, nursing homes, and schools, odor eliminator vent stack filters that filter the harmful sewer odors by oxidation. Oxidation is accomplished with chlorine dioxide technology. Because chlorine dioxide reacts selectively and primarily with only the most offensive odor producing compounds (hydrogen sulfide, organic sulfurs, organic amines) the Odor Eliminators will normally provide a much longer service life than products such as activated carbon. With a properly designed filter that allows the original design of the system plumbing system to function does not pressurize the lines like some of the other products on the market. Moisture does not have a negative effect on the Eliminator therefore unwanted reactions do not occur and power is not needlessly spent allowing chlorine dioxide to be available and ready on demand. The result is safe, extremely effective, broad-spectrum malodor control. Chlorine dioxide remains available and ready on demand.
Polishing is accomplished with technology that protects against the escape of malodors can not be oxidized. It incorporates polymeric adsorption and electrostatic bonding technologies. Polishing and oxidizing are accomplished simultaneously. The result is safe (utilizing the same material approved for food storage by the USDA), extremely effective, broad-spectrum malodor control. (Request Form No. 502 from USDA for more detailed information.)
After you have installed roof stack vent filters, inside odors are most likely coming from leaking wax seals or gaskets on your plumbing fixtures. In this case the odor is concentrated typically in an isolated area, the bathrooms. It can be intermittent due to several building mechanical system designs. Bathroom fixtures have a p-trap built-in the fixture so if the fixture becomes loose from the floor or the wall the wax seal or gasket can leak. This type of leak will allow sewer gas to leak directly into the room. Most bathrooms have an exhaust fan which intensifies the introduction of the gas into the room by pulling the gas from the source, the leaking seal at the floor moving it to the ceiling exhaust vent prior to exhausting the gas from the space. This condition is detected through smell or a professional can use a H2S measuring device to detect and measure sewer gas concentration. The remedy for this problem is to replace the bad fixture seals. Contact your preventive maintenance group or to arrange for a local technician help with this problem.
Bathroom odors can also be traced to urine absorption into the tile or tile grout.
Many businesses try to mask the odor by installing a deodorizer mister in the bathroom to spray a scented to product to mask the odors in bathrooms. With proper maintenance of fixtures in the bathrooms and the correct initial designed systems operating correctly this problem should be eliminated. If this condition is corrected overtime it can worsen and affect other parts of the business.
Odor and constant smell can be due to the build up of urine saturating tile grout around urinals and tile grout. There are spray products that eliminates this problem by using it in a regular maintenance program.
When you have floor sinks, drains and floor / wall clean outs dry of water especially in basements of homes and businesses in the production or mechanical areas you will often detect an offensive odor. A dried out p-trap allows the sewer system to vent freely into the space. In the case of a restaurant or any building with an exhaust system that may be in a negative air balance the problem is intensified. The exhaust system can draw the sewer gas into the facility. The affect on an isolated area is not uncommon or if it is near a return on the HVAC system circulate it through out the building. The most efficient way to identify if you have this problem is to do a smoke test on the sewer system. Prior to doing the smoke test we would first recommend verifying all floor sinks and drains have water in the p-traps. This would include the units in isolated rooms such as the mechanical areas and the units installed behind or under equipment. The wall clean outs can be visually inspected but are difficult to detect leakage without a H2S meter or a smoke test. The dried out p-trap when identified can be fixed by adding water to fill the p-trap. Contact your preventive maintenance group to help with this problem.
To fix floor drains and floor sinks add water to the traps on a regular basis or add a trap primer to the system.
To fix floor and wall clean outs check for bad seals in a random fashion. Replace where worn.
The Ultimate Gas Furnace Troubleshooting Guide
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Looking for some quick tips on how to keep your gas furnace in tip-top shape this winter? The Ultimate Gas Furnace Troubleshooting Guide will answer all of your questions, including how to turn on a furnace, how to change a furnace filter, how to test a furnace’s airflow, what to do if a furnace doesn’t ignite, and much more.
We hope you find this guide to be useful – and we hope you stay warm this winter!
A) How to Turn On Your Gas Furnace
It sounds easy, but believe it or not, many people don’t know how to turn their furnace on or off. Here’s a simple, step-by-step breakdown:
* Find the breaker for your furnace. It’s part of the electrical panel, which is usually located in your basement, utility room or garage. The breaker should be clearly labeled with a gas furnace sticker. Turn the breaker to the “On” position.
* Locate and turn on the furnace switch. It is typically somewhere near the bottom of your basement stairs – sometimes in the ceiling, sometimes in the furnace room itself, and usually at eye level or slightly higher.
* Set your thermostat. Check that the furnace is on and then make sure that the selector switch is set to “Heat”. Finally, adjust your set point temperature, and that’s it – your furnace is turned and ready to heat your home!
B) How to Check and Change Your Furnace Filter
Proper maintenance of your furnace filter can help optimize airflow from your furnace, which will keep it running efficiently and economically during the coldest months of the year. To prevent burnout of your furnace parts, we recommend inspecting your filter monthly and changing it every three to six months. Here’s how it’s done:
* Begin by carefully opening the furnace’s external rack or panel door.
* Remove the furnace filter by sliding it out. Take a look at the filter to see if there’s any darkness or discoloration.
* If you can’t see through the filter, it’s definitely time for a new one. Slide the new filter into the furnace, making sure that it is installed in the direction of the airflow. And that’s it – you’re done!
C) How to Test Your Furnace’s Airflow
If a room in your house is too cold during the winer, it might be because your furnace isn’t supplying enough warm air through the registers in that particular room. There’s a simple way to test the airflow from your furnace registers to make sure they are working properly — the garbage bag airflow test.
The test is a quick way to estimate airflow by determining how long it takes to fill a common plastic garbage bag. While it is not a precise measurement, it is better than no measurement at all and will give you a good ideas as to whether you need to call a technician to look at your ductwork.
To do the garbage bag airflow test:
* Tape the mouth of the garbage bag to a coat hanger or piece of cardboard to keep it open.
* Crush the bag flat and place it over the register or exhaust hood.
* Count the number of seconds it takes for the bag to fully inflate.
If the inflation time is:
* 2 seconds = 37 L/s (75 cfm)
* 4 seconds = 20 L/s (40 cfm)
* 10 seconds = 10 L/s (20 cfm)
If the measured airflow is less than 10 L/s, the furnace is delivering only a small amount of heat to a room and needs to be further inspected to determine why the heat is not going through.
The garbage bag airflow test is also useful if you have changed your heating or cooling systems or have made major renovations to your house.
D) If Your Gas Furnace Fails to Ignite
If you can hear that your furnace is on and the fan is running, but all you’re getting is cold air, you likely have ignition failure. Try resetting your furnace by turning the switch to off for at least ten seconds, then, turning it on again. If that doesn’t do the trick, give your HVAC contractor a call.
E) Furnace Troubleshooting Checklist
Think your gas furnace has quit? You could save yourself the cost of a no-heat service call by checking the following:
* Is the furnace switch in the on position? It may have been turned off by mistake.
* Is the thermostat properly set to the “heat” position and the temperature set to your normal heat setting?
* Is the furnace venting blocked by snow or ice? If so, try to remove the blockage.
* Are the programmable thermostat batteries fresh?
* Is the circuit breaker in the electric panel in the proper position?
* Is the furnace door properly closed?
* Has the filter been changed recently? If you’ve checked everything on the list and your furnace still isn’t working, give your local HVAC contractor a call, and they’ll get your furnace back up and running as soon as possible.
F) How to Properly Remove Vent Blockages
If you become aware of a furnace problem that might involve the exterior vent, do a quick inspection and see if any snow, ice or some common household item might be blocking the vent. If so, before removing the obstruction, head inside first and turn the off the power to your furnace. Now, you can safely clear away whatever is blocking your exterior vent. Once you’re done, turn your furnace back on using either the breaker or the switch.
A lack of airflow through the furnace’s interior vents could mean your furnace fan motor has seized. If this has happened, don’t try to fix the problem yourself – contact the expert furnace repair technicians at your local HVAC contractor.
G) How to Stop Air Leaks and Prevent Heat Loss
Air leaks account for a significant amount of a home’s heat loss in winter – resulting in increased heating costs as your furnace constantly tries to replace the warm air that has escaped from your home. Fixing these leaks will save you money on your heating bills.
To stop leaks around windows and doors:
* Remove the trims carefully.
* Fill large cracks or gaps with foam backer rod, oakum, or expanding polyurethane foam.
* Replace the trims and caulk along the edges.
To stop leaks along baseboards:
* Caulk along the seams without removing the baseboard.
* Remove the baseboard and caulk between the wall and the floor.
To stop leaks around electrical outlets on outside walls:
* Turn off power to the outlet and remove the outlet cover.
* Install a foam insulating pad.
* Replace the outlet cover turn the power back on to the outlet.
To stop leaks in an unfinished basement:
* Caulk under the basement sill plate and around the joists with a rubber-based caulking or acoustical sealant.
* Caulk any gaps where ducts enter a wall or ceiling.
* Insulate ducts with preformed wraps or duct-taped insulation batts.
To stop leaks in your attic:
* Seal any cracks.
* Weather strip your attic door and close it tightly.
H) If a Gas Smell is Detected
In the unlikely event that you smell something like a rotten egg smell, you could have a gas leak. Don’t turn on any electrical switches and open all of your windows. Then, go to a neighbour’s house and contact your HVAC contractor or your local gas provider immediately.
Dallas Home Inspector – Bathroom Vent Fan Duct Terminates In Attic
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www.dallas-homeinspections.com Dallas Home Inspection Solutions 10830 N. Central Expressway #170A Dallas, TX 75231 214-960-1005 maps.google.com Dallas Home Inspector with video taken during an actual home inspection explains where a bathroom vent duct should terminate and why. We help educate and inform home buyers every day in Dallas. If you are considering buying a home or have signed a contract on a home find out more here: www.cliffwillishomeinspections.com
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